Visiting Dumbarton Oaks, Georgetown

This past weekend offered beautiful fall weather, perfect for our Mid-Atlantic ICAA tour of Dumbarton Oaks arranged by landscape architect and boardmember Jennifer Horn.

Dumbarton Oaks has been owned by Harvard University since the early 1940s and hosts a number of their graduate programs on campus.  Sections of the famous gardens are open to the public and their renowned museum has a separate entrance on 32nd street NW.

Although much changed and constantly evolving, the gardens are the the work of famous landscape designer Beatrix Farrand, seen in the portrait above.

Unfortunately the house is undergoing some renovation work (roof and some structure being replaced) so scaffolding covered the neo-Georgian facade. You can see photos of the house at my earlier post from 2009 HERE.

The library is housed in the wing seen above designed by Thomas Waterman -a really spectacular period room in which one can study the antique landscape books in an elegant setting.

This grotto is only one of the many charming spots to be found throughout the gardens. The modern balustrade is very plain-jane compared to others found throughout the property but I suppose it meets code (most ugly railings do).

One of the best parts of attending the ICAA tours (everyone is welcome btw!) is that you get an opportunity to see many behind the scenes areas not open to the general public.

I had never seen most of the campus before and was thrilled with many of the original structures like the green house above, where plants are still grown for the gardens. The brick structure in the center was originally designed to be the library until someone came to their senses and realized antique books and water don't mix!

Washington is enjoying a spectacular fall this year which doesn't often happen. So often I feel we move directly from summer into winter.

 Many of the older structures such as the garage above have been wonderfully preserved on the exterior while the interiors have been unfortunately gutted and rebuilt in an institutional manner. Don't even ask about some of the modern buildings I'm not showing here and other work done on campus by architectural firm Robert Venturi - the less said there the better ( # inappropriate, # generic, # ugly ).

Many of us architects marveled at the lovely back door above - nicer than the front doors on many houses! Also notice the intricate brick paving patterns designed by Farrand.

The use of ornate brick and stone walls throughout the hilly, terraced gardens is one of my favorite aspects.

 While these are special details, they are to be found throughout the entire property.

Above is one of the many railing designs by Farrand - this may not meet modern day codes but is none-the-less pleasing to the eye.

Even the simple wooden garden bench above has lovely details; notice the scrolled bracket to the sides.

Inside the museum there are more wonderful treasures to check out. I particularly like the antique byzantine mosaics which are built into the flooring. The rather strange addition by Phillip Johnson, celebrating its 50th birthday, is growing on me and is a great example of marrying a modern addition to a classical structure (Robert Venturi take note!). Please join the ICAA on our next adventures and be sure to check out Dumbarton Oaks while in Washington, you won't be disappointed!

ICAA tour in DC, Clara Barton Missing Soldiers Office

Join the ICAA next week (Wednesday, Oct 22 2014 from 6:15-8:30 PM) for an exciting tour of the newly restored Clara Barton's Missing Soldiers Office in Washington's recently gentrified Gallery Place / Chinatown.

 image by Pepper Watkins

The tour will include the museum director relating the history of Clara Barton followed by how the research was conducted to fulfill the 16 year conservation and restoration of this forgotten gem from the Civil War era. 2 AIA learning units are available for those who need them and fun will be had by all. Join me there!

image from OLBN architects

The cost is $10 for ICAA members and $25 to the general public. To reserve your spot please email Susan Sapiro at susan.sapiro@classicist-washington.org.  The Clara Barton Missing Soldiers Office is located at 437 7th Street NW.

Arco della Pace, Milan

Recently my Austrlian Penpal sent me photos from his trip to Milan, Italy, including photos of the Porta Sempione. The centerpiece of this city gate is the Arco della Pace, or Arch of Peace, designed by Luigi Cagnola in the early 19th century.

The arch replaced an ancient Roman wall and gateway which were called Jupiter's gate or Porta Giovia. The significance behind the arch remains a mystery. It was either built in wood in 1806 for the marriage of Eugene Beauharnais with a Bavarian princess and later recreated in more permanent marble, or was designed for Napolean in 1807. Either way the arch wasn't completed until 1838 for Emperor Francis II, 5 years after Cagnola's death. Flanking the arch are exquisite neoclassical customs houses.

 Other than the iconic Parisian Arc de Triomphe it remains the largest structure of its kind.

 The construction of the sculpture reliefs are not only marble but also wood, bronze, and stucco.

If you find yourself in Milan, take a break from shopping to check out the Aro della Pace!

John Russell Pope tour and an upcoming ICAA event

I recently had the honor to host a lunch time tour of the John Russell Pope designed National Gallery of Art for the Mid-Atlantic branch of the ICAA of which I sit on the board.

Probably my favorite public building in a city of favorites, this classical gem was designed by architect John Russell Pope for Andrew W. Mellon. Mellon (basically and in short) gifted the building and the basis of its collection to the nation. In an odd twist of fate both Mellon and Pope passed away in August,1937 before the Galleries' dedication in 1941.

Clad in Tennessee pink marble the Neoclassical structure harkens the growing trend towards modernism while still looking to the past, as does much of its' collection.

Below you can see some early sketches by Pope which show the partee or basic plan as well as the massing of the building.

Largely based on Rome's Pantheon with wings housing the galleries, the structure incorporated the latest technology of the time which has held up remarkably well considering the wear and tear the building receives on a daily basis (including a recent earthquake)!

The central rotunda is my favorite space in the museum and possibly the city. The columns surrounding the central fountain are solid marble (quite the engineering feat getting those into place) which visually support a large coffered dome. While appearing to be the same stone as the rest of the interior, the dome is actually composed of plaster with a steel frame.

Indeed the entire structure is concrete and steel based with a very (modern) veneer of marble. It hides his secret well.

On either side of the rotunda are 2 skylit sculpture courts. As throughout the museum most spaces on the piano nobile are daylit by large skylights.

 The building itself is an encyclopedia on classical detailing.

I love this bronze lantern in one of the vestibules -notice the Greek key and architectural motifs.

The openings in the galleries themselves are clad in different materials -here in Italian travertine with silk damask walls (dating to the 1980s)

Seen above the current chief architect for the museum, Susan Wertheim, talks to the group about the Pantheon influence in front of Panini's painting, Interior of the Pantheon.

Speaking of classical detailing the ICAA has an upcoming lecture by Phillip James Dodd centered on his new book The Art of Classical Details on Thursday, May 22nd - a fascinating lecture not to be missed!

Information and tickets to the lecture can be purchased from the website; look towards the bottom of the events page linked HERE. Hope to see you there!

2 notable houses of stucco

This weekend while walking around Georgetown I noticed 2 unusual stucco houses. Now just in passing (or from a car window) they might not strike you as anything but ordinary but lets look closer.

This stucco house which appears to have been put together from at least 2 or 3 brick houses at some point reminds me of something from Rosemary's Beach in Florida, especially the side elevation. See what I mean?

 Don't you love how the tall planted trees make it look like Greek Revival columns on the front facade?

 The second house appears to be another white painted stucco house until you look closer.  Do you see it?

 Look beyond the lovely details such as double porches, symmetrical brick stairs, (a vintage Porsche under wraps), and the Chippendale rail.

All of the trim is painted the same white as the facade but with a navy blue highlighted line of trim.  Lovely, fresh, and so 'French' somehow.
I took all of these images with a new app I discovered somewhere called "Dynamic Light" - a sort of instant photoshop for your smartphone! Hope you can tell a difference in the picture quality.

Modern Gothic: Astley Castle

Ever wondered what it would be like to stay overnight in a castle? The Landmark Trust in Britain allows you just that pleasure. One of many properties they offer was recently the center of much debate and an ingenius renovation: Astley Castle.

Featured in the January 2013 issue of House and Garden magazine, the castle was a ruined shell since 1978 when the hotel it housed burned to the ground. However it held a storied past dating to the 12th century despite its rather forlorn existence throughout the 20th century.

Finally in 2005 a competition was held on how best to utilize the ruined castle.  Architects Witherford Watson Mann were chosen who preserved the damaged shell and ingeniusly inserted a modern house - utilizing the ruins to their best advantage.

Those of you who read this blog and/or know me realize I am not a modernist (duh!). However, I love the respectful nature of the new work within the charmingly derelict shell. The texture of the carefully chosen new brick within the original stone walls is beautiful.

The best feature was actually created from the most damaged part of the castle: the al fresco dining room which retains the original fireplace. Imagine dining under the stars fireside, at once inside and outside of the castle!

The emphasis here is of course on the architecture and not the interiors but I love the whimsy of the Gothic dining chairs seen above and the beautiful green curtains.  Would you stay here over a vacation?

 All photos by Jefferson Smith for House and Garden magazine.